Mosin Nagant Rifle Cleaning and Maintenance All content copyright © 7.62x54r.net

Introduction. There are almost as many ways to clean a firearm as there are people who shoot, and dozens, if not hundreds, of cleaners, solvents, and oils designed for firearms. Not surprisingly the number of options and opinions can be confusing to new firearm owners, and even to those with some experience. This page will try to address some of the common questions and misconceptions that appear on internet forums. An article like this must necessarily include some personal preferences and opinions and obviously not everyone will agree. The underlying basis of my methods is simplicity. Cleaning is nothing more than a necessary evil of shooting and not an end in itself. The less time, effort, and money spent on it, while still preserving the firearm, the better. More firearms have been damaged by improper or overaggressive cleaning than by shooting and sometimes more is not better. Hopefully the information here will be a good starting point for those with less experience but in the end each firearm owner must decide what works well for them. Although some of the techniques may be specific to the Mosin Nagant design most will translate well to other military surplus rifles, and to a certain extent modern firearms. Refer to this page for instructions on the disassembly of Mosin Nagant rifles if necessary. For quality tools and supplies at fair prices see the following sources: Pro-Shot Products, MidwayUSA, MidSouthShootersSupply. Visit the GunTec Dictionary at MidwayUSA for definitions of unfamiliar terms. Before beginning disassembly, maintenance, or cleaning on any firearm visually inspect the chamber and magazine to be sure that it is unloaded.

Tools, Supplies, Solvents, and Oils. While many Mosin Nagants and other surplus firearms come with a cleaning rod and kit these are better kept as historical accessories than used for regular maintenance. Military cleaning rods are typically too short to clean from the breech and careless or aggressive cleaning from the muzzle can damage the crown and lead to inaccuracy. The prevalence of counterbored Mosin Nagants is clear evidence of this. While the inexpensive three piece cleaning rods will get the job done they are easy to damage and are a false economy. A quality one piece cleaning rod can be purchased for about three to four times the price of a cheap kit and last a lifetime with proper use and care. There are several types of rods available including polished stainless steel (my preference), coated, and carbon fiber. Most rods designed for .30 caliber/7.62mm rifles are 0.27” in diameter. 0.20” diameter rods are designed for .22 caliber/5.56mm bores and while they will work the extra strength and rigidity of the larger diameter can be important when cleaning a stubborn bore. A 36” working length (base of handle to threaded end) rod will clean Mosin Nagants up to M91/30 length from the breech. M91s will require a longer rod in the 40” plus working length range. As a collection grows most firearm owners will find that a variety of rod sizes and diameters are worth the extra expense versus a one size fits all approach.
Bore brushes are sized to fit the bore of the firearm and .30 caliber is appropriate for Mosin Nagants although some prefer slightly larger 8mm brushes. Rifle brushes typically have 1.5” to 2” of bristle while pistol brushes have about 1”. Materials include bronze, stainless steel, and nylon. Bronze is the traditional material and will not harm the bore since it is softer than steel although they can wear out quickly. Stainless steel brushes last longer because they are harder than the bore itself but can damage it with overuse. Nylon brushes attempt to alleviate the shortcomings of the two types of metal, but due to the larger diameter of the bristles won’t always clean the corners of the grooves well. My preference is bronze brushes and I consider them a consumable item that is only good for one cleaning of a badly neglected bore or a few routine cleanings. They can be purchased in quantity online for very little over one dollar each. When using a brush it should be pushed or pulled entirely through the bore with no attempt to reverse direction inside the barrel. This can cause the brush to bind and even stick in the bore. Oversize brushes, 20 gauge or 12 gauge, are useful for cleaning the chamber.
Deleading wool is designed for scraping lead deposits out of a bore after shooting cast bullets but is also useful for cleaning out dried cosmoline or active rust from the bore and scrubbing the chamber. A small amount is wrapped around a cleaning brush, preferably one that is already worn out, and then used as any other brush.
A patch holder or jag is necessary to keep the cleaning patch on the end of the rod. Most rods come with a slotted patch holder, but threading each patch through it is tedious and while they are okay for wiping solvent or oil into the bore they do not push the patch tightly into the grooves to remove fouling. The patch is typically pulled back through the barrel before being removed from the holder which can transfer fouling back off the patch into the barrel. Jags are sized to the bore and fit snugly forcing the patch into the grooves for the full length of the barrel. With a little practice they are easy to use. Simply cover the mouth of a small bottle of solvent with the patch and quickly turn it upside down and back upright to soak the patch. Alternatively use a squeeze bottle and place a few drops of oil in the center of the patch or spray the patch with an aerosol can. Place it in the ejection port of the rifle and push the jag into the center of it and down the bore and out the muzzle. An advantage is the patch will fall off the end of the jag as the rod is pulled back leaving it and all the fouling it has accumulated outside of the barrel rather than dragging it back through.
Patches come in a variety of materials and sizes as well as round and square. Some shooters make their own patches from old t-shirts or other cloth by cutting it to size. Quality factory pre-cut patches can be purchased for about one and a half cents each or less ($13.00 to $14.00 per thousand) and considering the time involved cutting patches the correct size this is a bargain. For .30 caliber/7.62mm rifles a 1 ¾” square patch works well on a jag or patch holder. Smaller patches will not hold as much solvent or fill the bore as well. Larger patches can bind between the shank of the jag/patch holder and the barrel making it difficult to push through or even get stuck. Larger patches designed for 12 gauge shotguns can be handy for one time use applying or removing cleaners and oils to exterior surfaces.
Other useful cleaning supplies include household cotton swabs and pipe cleaners which are good for cleaning tight spots and small recesses. Large swabs sold specifically for firearm cleaning work well when cleaning the chamber and nylon and brass toothbrush style cleaning brushes should be on hand.
The primary purpose of solvents is to remove powder fouling from the bore with the removal of copper fouling a secondary purpose. Since military firearms are typically shot with jacketed bullets, including jacketed soft points for hunting, the removal of lead fouling is outside the scope of this article. Surplus military ammunition often, always in the case of 7.62x54r, has corrosive primers so that is another consideration. Methods to deal with corrosive primed ammunition will be covered more extensively below. Hoppe’s #9 has been around since 1903 and is my primary solvent. Although not as aggressive against copper fouling as some other solvents it does remove it and does an excellent job on powder fouling. It is also formulated to remove the salts left behind by corrosive primers in surplus ammunition so two separate steps are not required during cleaning. It can be left in the bore long term and will continue to penetrate and loosen powder fouling which is a benefit with pitted bores that trap deposits in the pores. It also continues to act against copper fouling long term and can be left in during storage rather than using another product for long term protection against rust. US military “CLP” (Cleaner, Lubricant, and Preservative), which is also sold under commercial brands, is another all purpose product which gives good results for many shooters. Hoppe’s also has a “Bench Rest” formula which is more aggressive against copper fouling. Sweet’s 7.62 is excellent at removing copper fouling, but like all ammonia based cleaners should not be left in the bore more than 15 minutes at a time. The various foaming bore cleaners seem to work well, but I don’t see any real benefit over a good long soaking with an appropriate liquid solvent and they are usually more expensive. Various brands of aerosol degreasers marketed for firearm cleaning do an excellent job of degreasing, but aren’t going to remove copper fouling. Common store brand brake cleaner is very similar and much cheaper. With any type of degreaser it’s important to protect the stock finish from damage, preferably by removing the action and cleaning it separate from the stock. They also leave the metal completely stripped of oils and it is imperative that oil be reapplied thoroughly to prevent rust whenever a degreaser has been used. Other solvents used for initial cleaning rather than routine maintenance are discussed below.
Oils have two primary purposes, lubricating and rust prevention and one product will often serve both purposes. While bolt action rifles like the Mosin Nagant do not have the same lubrication needs as semi-automatic firearms it is important to keep the bolt lubricated inside and out as well as contact points between moving parts like the trigger and sear. Hoppe’s Lubricating Oil or CLP will serve this purpose as will any number of other products on the market. The same products will also protect the bore and exterior surfaces of the action and other parts from rust. For long term protection heavy grease will work better, but proper storage conditions are even more important. For a compromise between short term and long term protection products like Shooter’s Choice Metal Seal work well as they penetrate and don’t evaporate. One common product that is not designed for use on firearms is WD-40. It is a water dispersal agent and while it is a good first step in cleaning a firearm that has been accidentally submerged in water, it is not a good solvent, lubricant or preservative.

Initial cleaning. Surplus firearms are found in a range of conditions from factory new and covered in heavy cosmoline to neglected and rusty relics. Each one must be approached on a case by case basis to determine what is necessary and appropriate for the initial cleaning. Three broad categories and a section on electronic bore cleaners follow and a combination of techniques might be required. In all cases the firearm should be inspected for any defects or broken parts while it is being cleaned. While rare, cracked receivers and severe pitting below the woodline have been found on surplus firearms. After cleaning, oil should be applied appropriately for preservation and lubrication and will be covered more extensively later in this article, as will bore cleaning. It is always best to remove the action from the stock to prevent damage to the wood, by accidental handling or chemical spills.
Cosmoline is a preservative used by militaries around the world which is a type of heavy grease with some variation in consistency and stickiness. At room temperature it is fairly solid so there’s no reason to remove all, or any, of it from a firearm that isn’t going to be shot at all or handled much. However, when a previously issued firearm was packed in cosmoline there can still be rust present and in this case a thorough cleaning and inspection is in order. Also, at warmer temperatures developed when shooting a rifle, cosmoline will flow as a thick liquid and can be very messy. Even when you think you have cleaned all the cosmoline from a rifle you will almost invariably find more on the bench after the first shooting session. To minimize this, the action should be removed from the stock and stripped to a certain level for a proper cleaning. This would include a complete takedown of the bolt except the extractor, removal, but not disassembly, of the magazine follower assembly, and removal of the interrupter ejector. It’s seldom necessary to remove any hardware from the stock. Boiling water will dissolve cosmoline to a point that it can be removed, but then it is necessary to make sure every part is completely dry and oiled. Parts washing fluid available at auto supply stores or mineral spirits will dissolve cosmoline without the danger of rust but oil should still be applied afterwards. Degreasers in spray cans can be expensive for an entire rifle, but handy for nooks and crannies. They should be used outdoors due to strong odors and will kill grass and other plants so use with care. Stocks should be treated separately from the metal parts of a rifle. One product that repeatedly comes up in discussion, but should never be used, is oven cleaner. This simply isn’t good for the wood and is best left in the kitchen. Another method is wrapping the stock in paper towels and placing it inside a hot car in the summer, or something similar. The idea is to open up the pores and “sweat” the cosmoline out, but what comes out can also go in so this may not be advisable. Never use any type of degreaser on stocks as they will often dissolve the finish along with the cosmoline. While messy and tedious, the best method is to simply wipe down the stock with paper towels until it is clean enough to handle. At the absolute most, lightly dampen the first couple of paper towels with mineral spirits to soften the cosmoline and then finish the job with dry paper towels. Clean the bore making sure it is not plugged with cosmoline as this can lead to dangerous pressures if fired in this condition. For more information on bore cleaning see the Routine Cleaning section below.
Soviet Refurbished Mosin Nagants typically have a light coat of oil or grease and don’t need the extensive cleaning described above. They should be taken out of the stock and inspected and the bolt, magazine and interrupter/ejector should be cleaned thoroughly and lubricated for proper functioning. A paper towel or soft cloth with a little light solvent like Hoppe’s #9 is often all that is needed. As above, make sure the bore is clear and clean. The stocks need nothing more than a good wipe down with a soft cloth or paper towels.
Neglected rifles can be a real challenge since rust will continue to destroy metal if it is not stopped, but stripping a collectible firearm to bare metal effectively destroys its value as surely as rust. It is never a good idea to use steel wool, and certainly not sandpaper, on metal surfaces. Rust removing chemicals will also remove any bluing that might be left on the metal and should be avoided. It is much easier to do more later than to undo damage from an overaggressive initial cleaning. A cloth dampened with typical (non-ammonia based) solvents and a lot of hard work scrubbing by hand is usually the best course. A nylon or brass cleaning brush can be used in recesses and stampings. Bolt parts which are not blued should never be polished as they will not match the condition of the rest of the rifle and a patina is preferable. If the bore is rusted, and it often is when rust is present on exterior surfaces, a small amount of deleading wool can be wrapped around an old .30 caliber cleaning brush and passed through the bore repeatedly with solvent. This will usually remove the worst rust, but often it’s necessary to take an extra step. If the firearm is in shooting condition and it is not an extremely rare model which shouldn’t be shot for fear of damage then it can be “shot clean”. After removing as much rust as possible with brushes and deleading wool, take the rifle and cleaning supplies to the range. Using any jacketed ammunition fire ten rounds (two magazines) as rapidly as safely possible to heat up the barrel and immediately clean the bore making several passes with a new brush and solvent taking care not to burn yourself on the hot barrel. Swab the bore out with a couple of patches soaked in solvent followed by a couple of dry patches. Repeat the process. There should be a noticeable improvement in the bore condition which usually improves more with each range session. Keep in mind that a previously rusted bore will always have a certain degree of pitting and will never shine like a new bore. However, this does not necessarily mean the rifle will be inaccurate with the right ammunition. One drawback is a pitted bore tends to collect more fouling and is harder to clean after routine shooting. Firearms which have rusted in the past should be inspected periodically and extra care should be taken to thoroughly and liberally oil them for storage. When the finish is worn off a stock it is always best to leave well enough alone. Anything added to the stock takes away from its originality and lowers the value. When stored in proper conditions stocks will not warp, crack, or split even if completely bare as wood is inherently stable under reasonable conditions. A good rule of thumb is that if you are comfortable then conditions are fine for firearms, typically 40-60% relatively humidity and temperatures of 40-85 degrees (F).
Electronic bore cleaners, both commercial and homemade, are popular in some circles for initial and even routine cleaning. The primary purpose of these is to remove metal fouling, copper in the case of jacketed ammunition. The theory behind these types of cleaners is to set up a small electrical charge from the firearm to a rod suspended in the bore surrounded by a liquid solution which will cause a “reverse plating” process removing the copper from the rifle and attracting it to the rod. While the copper coating on the rod is evidence that this process does work at least to a certain extent, the instructions for the commercial models carry some strong warnings that should be noted. First, there should be no active rust in the bore as the electronic process can accelerate the rust process and do significant damage in a short amount of time. Second, powder fouling should be removed prior to the electronic cleaning which indicates the latter is not a substitute for the former. Third, the process should not be continued for more than 15 minutes at a time followed by a cleaning and inspection of the bore for any signs of rust or other damage. Although homemade cleaners and solutions may not be the same as the commercial types, these warnings are enough to cause me to question whether either type should be used at all. They are certainly not “quicker and easier”, much less cheaper, than old fashioned cleaning with a rod, patches and solvents. I’ve also seen negligible benefits in accuracy or later ease of cleaning after using the process extensively on a particular M28 which was already accurate, but did have copper fouling from years of use. In short, I don’t recommend this cleaning method for either initial cleaning of a newly acquired surplus rifle or routine cleaning after shooting.

Routine cleaning. As long as a firearm is stored properly there is no reason to disassemble and clean it again after the initial cleaning and inspection unless it is fired. Repeated and unnecessary disassembly is more likely to cause damage and wear than shooting.
After a range session the bore and the bolt are the two primary concerns. Shooting one hundred rounds or less will not usually require any more than a basic cleaning with no more disassembly than removal of the bolt from the action and the bolt head. For the bore this would typically consist of two to six patches wet with solvent on a jag followed by a couple of dry patches and finally a couple of oiled patches for storage. Unless the bore is rough or pitted a brush isn’t necessary. The final patches may not come out “clean”, but it’s unlikely that the hundredth or thousandth patch would either. The bolt head should be removed and thoroughly wiped down with solvent as should the end of the firing pin and all exterior surfaces of the bolt. Follow this with a light coat of oil for protection and lubrication. The exterior metal surfaces should be wiped down with a light amount of solvent or even just a dry cloth and a light coat of oil applied. This is primarily to remove any fingerprints, sweat, or body oils from handling. After an extensive range session, or cumulative sessions, of several hundred rounds the bolt should be completely disassembled except for the extractor and thoroughly cleaned and oiled. The locking lug recesses and extractor relief groove of the action should also be cleaned and the magazine and interrupter/ejector should be inspected and cleaned if necessary.
After shooting corrosive ammunition some special considerations are necessary. All surplus 7.62x54r ammunition is “corrosive” which simply means that the chemical compound of the primer contains salts which are left behind in the bore and will attract moisture eventually causing rust. The ammunition is not corrosive in the sense that it is acidic and will cause immediate damage to the firearm and with proper cleaning corrosive ammunition will do no more harm than non-corrosive ammunition. Corrosive primers have a much longer shelf life than non-corrosive primers and this is the reason they were used in the Eastern Bloc long after Western militaries switched to non-corrosive primers. The benefit to shooters is cheap surplus ammunition that is still reliable after fifty years or more, with more meticulous cleaning being the trade off. When corrosive ammunition is used the firearm should be cleaned as soon as practical with higher humidity necessitating faster action than lower humidity. It is best to take basic cleaning supplies to the range and clean immediately after the end of the shooting session with a more thorough follow up later. Many shooters have strong opinions on the cleaning solutions and steps to take after using corrosive ammunition. A mixture of water and ammonia or glass cleaner (Windex) with ammonia is popular, but requires a thorough drying and cleaning with solvents followed by application of oil to prevent rust from the water based solutions themselves. Ammonia can discolor stock finishes and should be used with care, preferably removing the stock completely. Boiling water poured down the bore is a method dating back to the days of blackpowder muzzle loaders. While it is effective and the heat transferred to the metal will usually be enough to evaporate any remaining water it requires preparation time and equipment. An accidental spill of boiling water can also be dangerous and there is a chance that water will find its way into the barrel/receiver threads where it can’t be removed. The stock should also be removed to keep it dry and a thorough application of oil is required. At this point many have probably sworn off corrosive ammunition for life, but cleaning after its use doesn’t have to be as complicated as some shooters make it. The old stand by of Hoppe’s #9 was created when corrosive primers were the norm and is formulated to remove the salts which can cause damage. All that is necessary is standard cleaning using Hoppe’s #9, or any other solvent formulated specifically for corrosive ammunition, but paying particular attention to any areas possibly contacted by gases from powder ignition. Other than the bore this would include the bayonet if fixed, the end of the barrel, and even the front sight due to the large fireball produced by some surplus ammunition, especially in carbines. The bolt head and firing pin should also receive particular attention as there is a chance of gas leakage between the primer and its pocket. If surplus ammunition is used regularly the shooter will eventually experience a pierced primer, evident by a puff of gas in the face, which can be due to a soft primer cup or a firing pin with too much protrusion. In this case the bolt should be fully disassembled, except for the extractor, and thoroughly cleaned and lubricated and extra attention should be given to the inside of the receiver and magazine. This applies even if the ammunition is non-corrosive as the hot gases will evaporate any oil leaving no protection or lubrication. Occasionally the idea is proposed that shooting non-corrosive primed ammunition after shooting corrosive primed ammunition will physically remove the salts in the bore. This seems like a waste of expensive ammunition and it is questionable whether it would do any good for areas like the bolt face, firing pin, exterior muzzle, and bayonet. Regardless the firearm should still be cleaned and if a solvent formulated for corrosive primers is used there is no extra work or expense involved.
Before shooting a firearm the bore should be wiped clean with a dry patch or two to remove any excess oil which can lead to higher than normal pressures. It also insures that the bore is not obstructed which can cause catastrophic failure and injury to the shooter. An inspection and function test with dummy cartridges is also not a bad idea, especially if the firearm has been shot and cleaned by someone else or it is a firearm that is not shot and handled on a regular basis.

Lubrication and preservation is an important final step after cleaning regardless of the ammunition, solvents, or procedures used. Bolt action rifles don’t develop the levels of heat and friction that semi-automatic firearms do, but still need some lubrication for smooth operation. Heat from powder ignition can also dry out lubricant requiring reapplication. Obviously the bolt is the primary moving part and is the focus of attention when applying lubricants. Typically light oil on all surfaces of the interior and exterior of the bolt will be sufficient. This will transfer to the bolt raceway inside the receiver, but a direct application to the receiver is not a bad idea. The rear of the locking lugs on the bolt head are one of the more critical areas. In no case should a heavy grease, or even a heavy coating of oil, be used as this will just attract dirt leading to excessive wear and rough operation. Mosin Nagant bolts are usually “in the white” which is simply bare steel and the oil should be applied to all surfaces to prevent rust, but not to the extent that the handle is slippery and difficult to grasp safely. Other moving parts such as the rear sight leaf and slide, the magazine follower assembly, and the bayonet locking mechanism will also benefit from light oil for smooth operation. All metal surfaces should have light oil applied, especially after handling, to prevent rust, especially if storage conditions are less than optimal. The contact surfaces of the trigger and sear could benefit from a small amount of grease, but if the trigger is smooth oil will suffice. The stock should not have any product applied to it. Under proper storage conditions and care it simply isn’t necessary and will lessen the value of a historical rifle in all cases.

Sticky bolt syndrome is a term commonly used by Mosin Nagant shooters that actually refers to the cartridge case sticking inside the chamber making normal extraction difficult or even impossible. While a burr in the chamber can be the cause, this is uncommon and outside the scope of this article. Typically the problem is due to a dirty chamber and is aggravated by lacquer coated cartridge cases which are common among surplus Eastern Bloc 7.62x54r cartridges. However, it is not limited to lacquered cases and can be experienced with brass cases and to different extents with different varieties of lacquered cases. The problem often becomes worse the hotter the chamber is and a cold rifle might function fine and then lock up after five to ten shots, returning to normal after cooling off. Forcing extraction by hitting the bolt handle with a mallet is not recommended as it puts excessive strain on the extractor which can weaken it to the point that it eventually breaks. The case head can also separate leaving the body in the chamber requiring a case extraction tool to remove. The proper short term solution to removing a stuck fired case is to turn the rifle muzzle up and insert a cleaning rod down the bore. While firmly pulling on the bolt handle drop the rod from a height of about six inches above the rear of the cartridge case allowing it to bounce against it. Usually one to three tries will be sufficient to dislodge the case and open the bolt. At this point the firearm should not be fired until the underlying problem is corrected. The long term solution is to thoroughly clean the chamber removing any built up lacquer transferred from the cartridge cases while shooting or dried cosmoline or oil from storage. My preferred method is to use a short cleaning rod, such as a single section from the cheap three piece cleaning kits, with an oversized brush such as those designed for a 20 gauge or 12 gauge shotgun. Nylon brushes are suitable for this as they hold up better and the chamber walls are smooth rather than grooved. Wrap the brush with some deleading wool (see tools, supplies, solvents and oils above) and dip it in solvent such as Hoppe’s #9. Chuck the rod in a drill and run it at slow speed for 30 seconds to a minute while moving it forwards and backwards in the chamber. Swab out the chamber thoroughly with more solvent and repeat the process. Give the chamber a thorough final cleaning paying close attention to any fouling or pieces of brush or deleading wool that might have dislodged in the receiver or bore. The chamber should be left dry for shooting or lightly oiled for storage. In no circumstances should cartridges or the chamber itself be oiled to ease extraction. Friction between the case and chamber walls during powder ignition is an important part of the design of most firearms and reducing this can place undue strain on the bolt locking lugs leading to catastrophic failure and injury in extreme cases. Polishing compounds should not be used in the chamber as they are abrasive and designed to remove metal, even if only a small amount. Over time it may be necessary to repeat the cleaning procedure, especially if lacquered cases are used regularly. With experience the onset of the problem will be noticed before it becomes a serious issue and the cleaning can be done before a range session is interrupted. In extreme cases it may be necessary to switch to a different type of ammunition to completely resolve sticking cases. Proper lubrication of the bolt is also necessary for smooth operation and the combination of a slightly dirty chamber and a poorly oiled bolt can compound what would be a minor problem into a frustrating shooting experience.

Proper storage of firearms is just as important, if not more so, than application of oils and preservatives. When stored in proper conditions bare metal will not rust and unfinished stocks will not warp, crack, or split. Moisture, in the form of humidity, and extreme temperatures are necessary before problems will develop. A good rule of thumb is that if you are comfortable then conditions are suitable for firearms, typically 40-60% relatively humidity and temperatures of 40-85 degrees (F). If these conditions cannot be maintained then the method of storage needs to be evaluated and modified. In no circumstances should firearms be stored in foam lined or soft cases. The lining can wick away oil from the firearm and trap any moisture present leading to rust. Foam case linings have been known to break down over time and turn to a sticky goo which ruins the finish of the firearm. Some of the worst cases of surface rust I’ve seen have been firearms stored in soft sleeves. Similarly, rifle butts should not be placed directly on carpet. I have several rifles that are in pristine condition other than a rusted buttplate from being stored on a carpet floor by a prior owner. All that is necessary to prevent this is to place a small piece of wood on the floor for the butt to rest on. Ideally firearms should be stored in a secure climate controlled (air conditioned year round) room in racks made of wood or a similar non absorbent material with a minimal felt padding, preferably only contacting wooden stocks or handguards. Gun safes are the most secure storage for smaller collections but should be within a climate controlled room rather than in an unconditioned garage or basement while trying to maintain ideal conditions within the safe itself. Every time the safe is opened the outside unconditioned air mixes with the “conditioned” air inside the safe and whatever method used to remove moisture must work overtime to bring it back to an acceptable level. In the case of desiccants they can become useless in a short amount of time since they are only capable of absorbing a fixed amount of moisture.

In conclusion, proper firearm cleaning and maintenance should enhance the collecting and shooting experience and not be seen as either an end in itself or drudgery. With the proper supplies and some experience its not a difficult task but an important one that should be practiced by all collectors and shooters. If you found the information here useful, support the site by clicking the shirt below and making a purchase. Thanks for the support.